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A day trip or a long weekend camping excursion has always been a favorite for my family. Yes, I know, Jemez is crowded, the traffic can be obnoxious, (hint: don’t go on a holiday) and some may think it’s overrated, but there’s really not much else like it in New Mexico. 

Here’s why my family still loves the Jemez Mountains and Jemez Springs and why you should too. 

Jemez Pueblo (Walatowa)

Walatowa means “this is the place” in the Indigenous language of Tanoan, and it is. Driving into the Jemez Pueblo, the red cliffs and that amazing red dirt greeting you as you leave the tiny village of San Ysidro are unmatched. There are not a lot of stops other than a small convenience store to gas up or get a quick snack, but you can park next to the cliffs and enjoy a picnic lunch. It’s otherworldly, almost Mars-like. Red Rock Trails offers a 1.5-mile self-guided hike or, if you’re with a large group, you can book a guided tour in advance.  There’s visible fencing and signage to keep folks from wandering off too far on their own. Keep in mind that Jemez Pueblo is Native land and visitors should be respectful, especially of those areas considered sacred by the tribe.

Jemez Springs

The Village of Jemez Springs is adorable and worth the stop for lunch. There are only three places in town to grab a bite, the historic Los Ojos Restaurant and Saloon being the most well-known. Los Ojos, located on Hwy NM 4,  is the place to catch live music and a beer on a Friday or Saturday night. The menu is a mix of New Mexican and traditional American fare. The taxidermied wildlife that adorn the walls are always a conversation starter. 

Our family’s favorite joint for good food, vibes and drinks is Jemez Mountain Brewhouse. Located at 17691 NM 4, the brewery is relatively new to the village, having opened just two years ago by a few entrepreneurs in the village. All of the menu items (mostly pizza and calzones) can be made vegan or vegetarian and they serve New Mexican brews. The brewery is only open Friday through Sunday and only for dinner. Get there early for happy hour and enjoy the tunes of whichever jam band is playing that night. 

Highway 4 Cafe and Bakery at 17502 NM 4 has a delectable selection of pastries and the walls are adorned with local art. If you’re in town between Thursday and Sunday (the only days they’re open), stop by for breakfast or lunch since the cafe closes at 3 p.m. 

If you’re not into hiking up the mountain and sharing a natural spring with a probably naked crowd, you can hit up the 100-year-old Jemez Springs Bath House right in the middle of town. Soak in a private tub, get a massage and then head to the Jemez River which runs right behind the building. Soaks are reasonably priced and you get a free one on your birthday.

Into the woods

Further north from the village and located right next to the road, you’ll find the infamous Jemez Soda Dam. The 7,000-year-old dam is full of nooks and crannies and has a bit of a sulfur smell from minerals bubbling up from the stream. It’s a great spot for kids to explore. 

If you’re in the Jemez Mountains to camp, move on past the often-crowded pay-to-stay camping spots and drive past Fenton Lake onto BLM land. It’s worth the drive and if you go from May to July, the wildflowers make the drive worth every minute.