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In an ever-evolving quest to eat less meat and more vegetables, I often try, and sometimes really enjoy, plant-based protein. But don’t be fooled, it is pretty hit-and-miss in that section of the supermarket. Case in point: A recent experiment replacing sweet Italian sausage with non-meat “sausage” that completely transformed my otherwise succulent lentil soup into something that tasted like cereal.
Never again.
But those types of experiences don’t deter me from being adventurous in this or any other category of food. My latest adventure involved a pair of meals at the cleverly-branded Nobody Calls Me Chicken, a small vegan spot located at the corner of Girard and Indian School that serves what they call “vegan comfort food.”
That’s a tall order if you are trying to draw diners that aren’t vegan, but the folks behind this culinary gem have done their homework when it comes to flavor.
Nobody Calls Me Chicken is housed in a clean and modern space, originally a modest gas station, decorated with bright orange walls and chairs to match the aged green concrete floors. Upon entry, guests are greeted with a walk-up register, a digitized menu and a wall of artificial grass with a neon sign that reads “Living’ La Vida Tofu.”
If you think you don’t like tofu, don’t worry, you will. After just one bite of the NCMC Sando–this eatery’s star of the show–I was pleasantly surprised. The texture, meant to mimic a fried chicken breast sandwich, is super crispy on the outside, giving way to a soft, lighter-than-chicken bite. There’s a ton of flavor, but it doesn’t really taste like meat of any kind. If you didn’t know what it was made of (and even if you did), the Sando would fulfill your taste buds and fill your stomach. Topped with lettuce, tomato and your choice of sauce (I tried the spicy chipotle), it is simple, flavorful and I will come back again, only to add a side of green chile.
I also ordered a po’boy on my first visit, which featured NBMC’s soy curls, which are essentially the same tofu base, cut in thin strips, battered and deep fried. The sandwich has essentially the same ingredients as the Sando, just prepared differently with a tasty Cajun sauce. Yet, it tasted vastly different than the Sando. The soy curls tasted a lot like pork cracklins minus the pork. These are so crunchy and tasty that I want to bring a giant bowl to a party and watch it disappear. Like many po’boys, there is more bread than needed, so I just started to dip these crunchy beauties into the sauce until they were gone.
With all this flavor on the main dishes, I assumed that my sides of mashed potatoes and coleslaw would be the same. Unfortunately both were blander than I would have liked.
On a second visit with a dining companion, I ordered the BBQ & Slaw sandwich, featuring those same soy curls, but marinated in a sweet and tangy barbecue sauce. Crafted to simulate a classic pulled pork sandwich, it was a wet and messy affair, but in the best kind of way. The soy curls couldn’t quite compare texturally to traditional pulled pork, but again, so much flavor! I do enjoy the taste of meat, to be sure, particularly the smoked variety. And while this didn’t evince much smoke, the sauce had a lot of thought put into it.
My companion tried the chickpea sub for variety’s sake, but she wasn’t as thrilled. I thought it somehow evoked the flavor of tuna or chicken salad and was pretty happy with the flavor, maybe not enough to order again (but only because there are better options). Featuring a well-balanced mix of mashed chickpeas with crunchy chopped celery and carrots tossed in mayo on a bed of pickles and topped with sprouts, this is a great option for vegans not interested in eating food that even approaches the taste of meat.
A vegan friend recently told me that there are some plant-based products that actually taste too much like meat, and that turned them off. I just nodded politely.
Despite skepticism on both sides of the vegan divide, the owners of NCMC, Jonathan and Elizabeth Bibiano, are so good at this vegan thing, they have taken things a step further: Opening a vegan New Mexican food restaurant called Vegos. I will pause for the collective Burqeño gasps, then promptly order a Lion’s Mane Burrito.
Nobody Calls Me Chicken
2904 Indian School Road NE
Open Tuesday – Saturday, 11 am – 8 pm
NICE ==MR K HOPPER ==LOVE IT