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If you love Mexican food, Albuquerque is arguably as good as it gets stateside. We live in a virtual sea of different styles of food inspired by chile peppers, corn, beans, rice, onion, avocado, et al. But if you are the owner of a Mexican restaurant, there’s an obvious issue: differentiation.
With hundreds of restaurants all serving similar menu items, how does one stand out? Quality? Authenticity? Atmosphere? Location? Well, all of the above, but even then, you are one of dozens. Tex-Mex? Just jivin’ you.
As a Duke City native, I have eaten at all of these places (I wish that was true). I have, however, been to quite a few local Mexican spots. Those visits have allowed me to pick up on subtle variations that make each one a favorite for different reasons—great green chile or decor here, perfect carne adovada or lively patio there.
However, one restaurant in particular, Don Choche Tacos y Cerveza, has revealed a new layer to my local Mexican eatery onion. The bright-blue basket-adorned walls, authentic Mexican soundtrack, charrería on the TV, and an extra-deep salsa bar will truly make diners feel like they are sipping cerveza on the south side of the border. I can’t say that there are too many joints in town that make me feel this way.
Don Choche originally started as a food truck in 2007. You would (and still can) regularly find a Don Choche truck parked at Marble Brewery downtown. Yet, it is the Los Ranchos brick-and-mortar location—an old adobe that makes it seem like this place dates back multiple generations—where I and a dining partner visited recently to find an authentic Mexican menu featuring tacos, enchiladas, flautas, tostadas, shrimp cocktail and menudo. My eyes focused on the tacos (four substantial-sized tacos for $15), where I then had to choose from a long list of fillings, including al pastor, carnitas, adovada, fish, shrimp, birria and tripas among others. I chose chicharrón and green chile brisket. The former gets a choice between crispy and soft. I made the wrong choice with soft. Though the flavor was nice and rich, it felt a little too slimy on the palate for my tastes. I missed that savory chicharrón crispiness. The green chile brisket on the other hand was insanely good, exuding an element not found in a lot of tacos: Smoke! If you go here soon, get a couple of these beauties, or go big with the green chile brisket burger.
My dining partner got what she always orders: the combo plate. However, I was glad she did, as it allowed us to taste the enchiladas, tamales, rice, beans and relleno, which were all pretty standard in taste. Nothing stuck out too much and neither the green nor red blew our minds. Though it did make for a dang tasty breakfast the next day topped with a fried egg.
Return visits will be many here for us, as we didn’t get to try the birria tacos (my current fave dish), the molcajete plate for two, caldo or green chile stew, or anything from the breakfast menu; I have my eyes particularly focused on the chilaquiles torta.
I tend to avoid crowds, but because this spot seemed lively even with less than 12 people in the room, I would like to hit peak time here. Most likely, that is on Friday or Saturday, when they ask a mere $12 for two tacos and beer or margarita. The south of the border feel would certainly be intensified then with lots of chatter, loud music and a buzzing patio. It would then cease being just dinner and instead blossom into a full-on cultural event.
Don Choche Tacos y Cerveza
7319 4th St NW
Los Ranchos de Albuquerque